Super bivouac au bord du pacifique à Pisagua, petit village côtier détruit en 2005 par un tremblement de terre . Sous le régime de la dictature de Pinochet quelques privilégiés de l’encadrement Humberstone venaient s’offrir des séjours balnéaires dans ce petit coin de paradis. En contradiction des ouvriers prisonniers devaient les distraire en jouant des scènes de théatre contre leur volonté.
Le théatre
Direction Arica par la panaméricaine ça grimpe sec mais la route est belle on traverse deux vallées , la vallée de Camarones et la vallée de Chaca la ville la plus aride au monde .Bivouac sur la plage à Arica Retour à Pisagua, nous n’irons pas au Perou cette fois ci comme prévu pluie ce n’est pas la bonne saison pluie abondante Bernard et Nicole en arrivent ils nous le déconseillent fortement.
D
Cimetière de Pisagua croix en bois face à la mer.
Deux statues géantes au pied du Cerro Atajana 1575 mètres.Petite capitale minière du Chili, elle est paumée à 2260 mètres d’altitude au milieu du désert d’Atacama
Village fantôme d’un ancien camp de travailleurs , des prisonniers perdus en plein désert site très dégradé une sensation forte et étrange.
Direction San Pedro d’Atacama
Direction San Pedro De Atacama, vu sur l’imposant volcan enneigé ( LICANCABUR) culminant à 5916 mètres.
Nos nouveaux compagnons de route Nicole et Bernard .
Gros village incontournable perché à 2240 mètres d’altitude , se trouve au cœur d’une oasis clairsemée perdue en plein désert.
La vallée s’étend sur 12 kilomètres de piste avant de se terminer en cul de sac . Au bout de 5 kilomètres on atteint la dune Mayor , teinte pétrole ,elle sépare deux petites vallées blanchi par le sel après les pluies , on à contourné la dune à pied , puis le long de la crête vertigineuse on atteint un point de vue exceptionnel sur la vallée lunaire.
Excursion envoûtante de la vallée de la lune déchiré par l’érosion ,vraiment irréel.
Direction les geysers du Tatio 4320 mètres Situé à 96 km de San Pedro , on s’arrêtera pour s’acclimater au bout de 36 km à 3500 mètres d’altitude tout va bien pas de migraine quand au 4X4 toujours du mal à supporter l’altitude .Nous sommes fatigués par l’altitude deux heures de piste de taule ondulée on bivouaquera sur le site à 4300 mètres.
GEYSERS DU TATIO
Nous sommes sur le site dés 6 h du matin ,l’arrivée est très belle avec le spectacle de l’aube qui baigne d’une lumière rose , les volcans et les montagnes aux cimes enneigées plus les fumerolles des geysers qui se réveillent entre la température de l’eau très élevée et la température extérieur.
On compte une quarantaine de geysers sur ce site qui atteignent environ 75 cm , et les fumerolles une dizaine de mètres. Ce site est un incontournable , impressionnant par sa pureté. Baignade dans un bain chaud naturelSur la route petit village en direction des lagunes aux mille reflets
Vu sur les yeux du salar ,deux profonds yeux d’eau douce parfaitement circulaire l
les lagunes de chaxa et Tebenquiche
Cette lagune est situé au cœur du salar d’Atacama.
LAGUNE TARA
Le long de notre route reflet à l’état pur dans la lagune, époustouflant et magique.
Dernier kilomètre au Chili avant de passer la douane en ArgentineAprès avoir passé à 4800 mètres nous redescendons à 4200 mètres le col Paso Jama Pépère est à bout de souffle , grosse fumée noire et nous finissons à 40 km/h en troisième.
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